Week 47: Scotland

Week two in Scotland was filled with fantastic drives, amazing towns, and incredible views!

Day 7: Kirriemuir to MacDuff

Highlights:

Checking out Glamis Castle first thing in the morning

Finding a cool bridge to explore on the way to Balmoral Castle

Spending a few hours walking around the grounds of Balmoral Castle, where the Royal family spends a summer holiday each year. We were able to check out the carriage house, the ballroom, and the many different gardens. Balmoral Castle sits on 2832 hectares of land and has seven munros (mountains over 3000ft) on the property. We also saw many carvings of corgies, the Queen’s favourite type of dog. The garden cottage was my favourite building. 

Finding a great restaurant (Victoria’s) in Ballater that had just opened it’s doors earlier that week

Seeing ski hills, small waterfalls, old stone houses, glens, yellow gose all over the hillsides, and many narrow roads

Passing through Banff, which has it’s own Banff Springs Hotel

Settling into our fourth floor apartment in MacDuff

Walking around the town and repeatedly meeting up with a group of runners who were really friendly

Weather:  cloudy and cool at Balmoral, a bit rainy in the evening

Day 8: Coastal drive down to Aberdeen and back to MacDuff 

Highlights:

Giving Will his only break from navigating during our two weeks of driving

Driving down the very steep road down to Gardenstown, where we enjoyed a windy walk around this cute coastal town

Walking along the coast trail to Crovie, a small town only accessible on foot

Driving down another really steep, narrow road to Pennan and crossing our fingers we didn’t meet up with any cars on the road on the way back up the hill

Driving out to Fraserburgh and experiencing extremely strong winds while walking from the car to the café inside the Scottish Lighthouse Museum

Watching a few seals dive and resurface from the café

Walking around Peterhead, where we saw the working harbor and Mom bought some new sandals

Walking along the cobblestone streets of the Old Town of Aberdeen, and checking out all of the old buildings (and one very funky library) now being used by the University

Driving through small towns like Oldmeldrum and Tariff on our way back to MacDuff

Weather:  a few five minute rain showers and some serious wind!

Day 9: MacDuff to Delny

Highlights: 

Stopping in Portsoy for an 8:30am ice cream cone and a walk around this cute town

Passing through the town of Elgin, which just seemed to be filled with traffic circles

Seeing lots of fields and windmills and purple lupins while driving

Stopping in Inverness for a picnic lunch along their pedestrian shopping street

Driving through tree arches down the Loch (east) side of Loch Ness to Dores

Seeing where Steve the Nessie Hunter has been set up by the beach for the last 17 years

Driving down the Ness side to Urquhart Castle

Getting a close up look at some highland cattle

Touring Black Isle Brewery and having a few samples to try

Pulling up to the “servant’s quarters” of the 17^thcentury home we booked to stay in for the night. We had a maid’s room, a housekeeper’s room, and a butler’s pantry! We had a great chat with the owner, explored the 6 glamping pods he is setting up on the property, and visited the chickens and ducks on site.

Watching for the sunset after 9:00pm

Weather:  a little windy in Dores, but really nice the rest of the day

Day 10: Delny to Thurso

Highlights: 

Stopping in Dornoch to walk along their great sandy beach and by their famous golf courses

Visiting the cathedral Madonna got married in, which dates back to the 1200s! 

Spending some time in two shops that have been converted from a jail and a post office

Stopping for a picnic lunch in Golespie. After lunch, Will and I set off to do the Big Burn walk, which took us through a quiet forest and a canyon, and by a number of small waterfalls

Only having a short stop for an accident around Portgower

Stopping off in Wick for a yummy coffee break

Driving out to the northern tip of John O’Groats, and then walking out to take in the dramatic cliff edges, the many seabirds (including puffins!), and the Witch Hat rocks

Seeing grassy sand dunes, red telephone booths, huge houses, castle ruins, and incredible cliffs while driving

Stopping in Thurso to stay in a very spacious townhouse

Walking down to St. John Square to watch the local bagpipe band and highland dancers perform. We found a great fish and chip shop closeby, and were able to enjoy dinner in the park while listening to the music

Finding the Thurso bowling greens tucked in behind the grocery store, and talking to a couple guys who play there

Ending the night with a game of cards

Weather:  cool and windy, raining off and on throughout the morning

Day 11: Thurso to Badcall

Highlights: 

Having a lazy Sunday start to the day

Driving through small towns like Strathy and Bettyhill, watching as the dramatic coastline met with grassy fields and productive farmland changed very quickly to craggy rocks, mountains, inlets, and beaches

Driving the first of many roads so narrow we had “passing places” to pull over into to let oncoming traffic by

Stopping for scones with cream and jam

Walking along an interpretive trail, which taught us about the Durness Riots as we walked amongst the sheep in the fields. Mom collected wool as we walked… a project is brewing!

Touring inside Smoo Cave with a guy who is totally obsessed with Scottish caves. Our guide took us across the cave in a dingy, and then we walked a bit further into the cave. He talked to us about the fault lines and the work he and another guy have been doing in order to get access to another part of Smoo.

Driving through Durness, and continuing down the west coast along the North Coast 500 route

Finding Ron’s B&B (Stonechats Croft) in Badcall after an unsuccessful search for a place to stay in Scourie. We drove for what seemed like forever down this narrow lane to get there, but once we were there, Ron offered us a trailer to ourselves, which had the most magnificent view. Ron quizzed us with random trivia and shared stories that had us all laughing so much. He also stocked our fridge full, so we were feeling pretty spoiled by this great find along the way!

Learning a new card game called Frustration

Listening to the strong wind blow as we drifted off to sleep

Weather:  cool, windy, and wet off and on all day

Day 12: Badcall to Applecross

Highlights: 

Listening to the wind as we ate breakfast

Driving along very narrow, scenic roads through the rocky Geopark

Stopping in Drumbeg to run against the wind to the beach and take in the magnificent waves crashing along the beach

Stopping in Lochinver to visit a gift shop

Stopping at a small bookstore/café along C1003 for coffee and a picnic lunch

Driving along the A835 through Garve, and then back to the coastal road to get to Applecross. We were happy that there weren’t many cars on the road today!

Transitioning from the North Coast 500 to the Wester Ross Coastal Trail

Having a full day of incredible driving views- mountains, cliffs, water, beaches, and islands

Arriving at our newly renovated shore side apartment, complete with tartan carpet in the living room. Sitting in this room, we could listen to the waves crash along the shore.

Walking around the small town of Applecross, and landing at The Junction for dinner and delicious treats we brought back to our place for dessert

Weather:  very windy and wet in the morning, rain off and on throughout the day, and then the sun broke through and shone throughout the afternoon and evening

Day 13: Applecross to Plockton

Highlights: 

Finding deer grazing near the road first thing in the morning

Zigzagging down the mountain on an extremely skinny road (C1087) down towards Lochcarron. To make things even more tricky, they were working on expanding the road by about a foot most of the way down.

Visiting the Weaver’s Shop in Lochcarron and learning more about the different tartan specific to each clan

Stopping at Lochcarron’s Waterfront Café for lunch

Visiting the stunning Eilean Donan Castle. We learned ‘Eilean’ means ‘Island’ in Gaelic. We were able to explore most of this castle, which is still owned by the MacRae family. We walked through many rooms, including a fully staged kitchen and some bedrooms. We also did a loop around the outside of the castle. 

Finding a hedgehog walking along the road after we stopped in Kyleakin for some groceries

Landing at our adorable cottage in Plockton, which had a great big window near the table and a great view of the water and nearby hills

Trying haggis pies for dinner

Ending the night with a game of cards

Weather:  cool and a bit of rain off and on

Act of kindness: Getting a list of recommended stops along the North Coast 500 route from the bar tender at 6 Degrees North in Aberdeen near the beginning of the week