Week 25: Cambodia

We started this last week off with another night bus, taking us all the way from Siem Reap to Sihnoukville. This night bus was a lot smoother than the last one we took, and we managed to sleep most of the way. 

We then transferred to a very bumpy speedboat, which took us over to the beautiful island of Koh Rong Sanloem. There, we settled into a cute beach bungalow, complete with mosquito net (much needed at night) and front porch with a table, chairs and a hammock. We had had hopes of snorkeling here, but our arrival was met with the tail end of a storm that had hit Vietnam, bringing some terrific waves to the island. We were very lucky not to get any rain, but the wind got up to 30km/hr. The waves were spectacular to watch, listen to, and jump into, but were not conducive for snorkeling. So, we simply enjoyed our small beach and the sand covered paths leading to a few restaurants and guesthouses. Our days were filled with a healthy mix of activity and rest along the beach. We swam and played in the water, read on the beach and in hammocks, and enjoyed glorious red sunsets each night. We have been surprised to find out that although Asia is graced with some stunning beaches, many of them are covered in litter. I tried to help a little bit by collecting garbage from the beach, and was shocked by the sheer volume of Styrofoam and plastic straws found along the water’s edge. This experience will certainly fuel my motivation to find more ways to reduce waste and use of plastic in our everyday lives.

our little beach home

our unexpected (and very noisy) breakfast guest

During our stay on Koh Rong Sanloem, many boats were cancelled and people were delayed in getting off the island. However, the waves calmed enough for us to get off the island on the day we had planned, so after another bumpy boat ride, we travelled the five hours from Sihnoukville to Phnom Penh by minibus.

*Knowing that we have families reading this blog together, I want to give a warning that this next part is something parents will want to read on their own and decide if/how they want to tell their children about it.

Once in Phnom Penh, we set about educating ourselves about the horrific genocide that took place here between 1975 and 1979. We had both read the book, “First They Killed My Father: A Daughter of Cambodia Remembers”, which gave us some insight into the terrible experiences of so many Cambodians during this time. Although we knew it would be difficult to visit the site of so many deaths, we felt it was something we needed to do.

We started off at Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, one of over 200 prisons located across the country. Tuol Sleng, also known as S21, was used as a place to hold and torture prisoners. We moved through the buildings of what was once a local high school, listening to an informative audio guide describing what happened here just forty years ago. The photographs and stories were heart wrenching and gruesome. We learned that the Khmer Rouge, led by Pol Pot, had an extreme utopian vision. In April 1975, everyone in Phnom Penh was ordered to leave their homes. They were told this was to protect them from bombing, and that they would be allowed back in three days, but this was not true. The people of Cambodia were forced to walk for days, and were relocated to various villages and camps. During these years, people were separated from family members, overworked, starved, and beaten. Young, uneducated Cambodians were taken to serve as part of the Khmer Rouge regime. Upwards of three million people died during this time. Tuol Sleng was the site of dehumanization and unimaginable torture. So much of what happened during this time was hidden away from the rest of the world.

desks replaced with cells

We then visited Choeung Ek Genocidal Center, also known as the “killing fields”. Most of the buildings that once stood here are now gone, but we walked around the site, reading and listening to information about it’s history. The Khmer Rouge began by bringing 10-30 people here a couple times a week, but by the end of 1978, they were bringing up to 300 people per day. Nearly 20 000 people were killed here. We saw many mass graves, large pits where the bones and clothing of hundreds of people have been found. We also visited a memorial tower that has been constructed here, housing over 9000 skulls and many other bones, honouring all of those who lost their lives here.

As I walked through these sites, I was already thinking of this post and how to share the details of Cambodia’s tragic history. I debated included any description of Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and Choeung Ed Genocidal Center, knowing full well that these were disturbing places to read about. However, I felt that not writing about these places would only amplify the secrecy and hiding that this country has experienced enough of. During our discussions after visiting these sites, we feel grateful to be in the business of education, and in a position where we can teach youth about diversity and acceptance and valuing differences and using their voice to speak up. Education is such a powerful tool.

The rest of our time in Phnom Penh was spent walking along the water, checking out the market and downtown area, and watching some phenomenal dancing on the promenade. It was amazing to see so many people dancing in unison, without a leader of any sort. As soon as a new song started up, throngs of Cambodian youth began dancing without any hesitation. After leading Zumba classes and knowing how often I completely forgot what moves came next for a particular song, this was especially remarkable to me!

Act of kindness: This week, we are acknowledging our parents for giving us the gift of being born in Canada. As Will has pointed out numerous times, we certainly won the life lottery being born in such an amazing country with so many benefits that we often take for granted. We have been reminded of our fortune many times throughout the past few months, but are feeling especially lucky in light of our visit to Phnom Penh.